Materials and finishes

Avoiding galvanic corrosion in outdoor steel fixings

Updated on 16/08/2026

Galvanic corrosion needs dissimilar metals in electrical contact and a conductive liquid between them. Outdoor joints often provide all three through rain, salt or condensation. Identify the base metal, coating and every fastener, then use a compatible fastening or a designed isolation and drainage detail. This guide shows what to put on the drawing and inspect after assembly.

Outdoor fixings can defeat an otherwise suitable finish. A stainless bolt through zinc-coated steel, an aluminium cap on carbon steel or a bare drilled edge beneath a washer may create a local corrosion cell whenever the joint stays wet. The risk matters on railings and balustrades, where a fixing is part of the load path as well as the finish.

Understand the three conditions

Galvanic corrosion requires three things at the same time: metals with different electrochemical potential, electrical contact between them and an electrolyte such as rainwater, condensation or salt solution. Remove reliable electrical contact or keep the junction reliably dry and the galvanic circuit is broken. In exposed construction, assuming a joint will always stay dry is rarely a robust strategy.

The less noble metal acts as the anode and corrodes preferentially. The rate is not decided by the metal names alone. Wet time, salt, temperature, coating condition and the relative exposed areas matter. A small anodic area connected to a large cathodic area is the dangerous geometry because corrosion current is concentrated on the small area.

Identify every material in the joint

Write down the actual material and finish of the main member, base plate, bolt, nut, washer, anchor, shim, handrail connector and adjacent cladding. “Silver metal” is not a specification. Distinguish stainless steel, aluminium, hot-dip galvanized steel, electroplated fasteners, bare carbon steel and powder-coated carbon steel.

A coating changes the exposed surface, but only while it remains continuous. Threads, punched holes, cut edges and installation scratches can expose the base metal. A powder coat colour, including any RAL shade, says nothing about electrical isolation at a tightened bolt. Obtain material designations and coating systems from the drawing or suppliers rather than guessing from appearance.

Choose a joint strategy

The simplest route is often a fastener and connected material combination already accepted for the exposure by the responsible designer and product manufacturer. “Use stainless everywhere” is not a universal answer. Stainless fasteners coupled to a large wet galvanized part may be manageable in one atmospheric detail and unsuitable in another. The zinc is the anodic material, and its local consumption depends on water, salt, areas and joint geometry.

Where dissimilar metals must meet, a designed electrical break can use insulating sleeves through holes, non-conductive washers, bushes or gaskets between faces. The isolation must be continuous. A washer under the bolt head does not isolate a bare shank touching the hole. The chosen material must resist outdoor water, ultraviolet exposure, temperature and compression without creeping out of the joint.

Do not add soft isolating pads to a structural connection without approval. They can change bolt preload, friction, slip and bearing. The structural engineer defines the load path, and the fastener or anchor manufacturer's current technical data control the approved arrangement. This is especially important for anchors into concrete, brick, aerated block or timber.

Keep electrolyte out and let water escape

Detail horizontal surfaces to drain. Avoid upward-facing pockets beneath washers, overlapping plates that draw water by capillary action and hollow sections with unsealed water paths. Provide drain routes at the lowest point without weakening the designed section. A sealant can help only when it is compatible with both coatings, continuous and accessible for inspection.

Do not seal one edge of a lap while leaving another to admit water. That creates a concealed wet crevice. On gates and fencing, movement and vibration can also crack rigid seals around posts, hinges and stops. The drawing should show whether the joint drains, is sealed or is deliberately open and washable.

Protect holes, cuts and coating damage

Whenever possible, complete cutting, drilling and welding before the protective system is applied. Site drilling through powder coating leaves a ring of exposed steel exactly where a washer traps water. If a site hole is unavoidable, the designer should define how bare edges are prepared and repaired before assembly.

Hot-dip galvanized coatings are specified under EN ISO 1461. Organic protective paint systems are selected with EN ISO 12944 according to environment and durability intent. Follow the applicable repair procedure for the original system and its manufacturer. An arbitrary touch-up paint over dirt, salts or loose coating is not equivalent to restoring that system.

Protect finished parts during tightening. A rotating toothed washer, slipping spanner or swarf left beneath a plate can breach the film. Remove drilling debris because carbon-steel particles can rust on stainless or coated surfaces and create misleading staining.

Consider the actual environment

An inland atmosphere, coastal chloride, de-icing salt, pool chemicals, industrial deposition and fertilizer runoff are different exposures. Sheltered joints can remain wet longer than fully rain-washed faces. Treated timber may also contain compounds that affect metal compatibility. Tell the designer what the fixing touches and where the item will stand.

A detail suitable for a garden table may not suit a roadside railing or a coastal gate. Browse the intended setting under garden and outdoor steel, but let the project corrosion specification control the connection rather than the catalogue photograph.

Put the detail on the drawing

Drawing noteRequired information
Main steelMaterial and complete protective system
FastenerMaterial, coating, strength requirement and supplier reference
IsolationSleeve, washer, bush or gasket at every contact path
WaterSlope, drain, seal and accessible inspection edge
Site workPermitted holes, cut-edge preparation and repair system
SubstrateConcrete, masonry or timber and approved anchor arrangement
ExposureInterior, exterior, coastal, poolside, salted or chemical

Inspect the assembled joint

Before handover, confirm that isolating sleeves were not omitted, gaskets did not squeeze out, drains remain open and all repair areas are complete. Photograph representative joints. During service, investigate rust emerging from a washer, white zinc corrosion, coating blisters, staining below a lap or persistent trapped water. The location often reveals which part of the detail failed.

Do not simply replace a corroded fastener with a more noble metal. That may accelerate attack on the plate around it. Identify the full material pair and moisture path, then have the remedial detail approved. For uncertainties about supplied fixings or finish scope, use the written order and the frequently asked questions rather than making an assumption on site.

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